Novel methodology for the extraction and identification of natural dyestuffs in historical textiles by HPLC–UV–Vis–ESI MS. Case study: chasubles from the Wawel Cathedral collection

High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with spectrophotometric and electrospray mass spectrometric detection (HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI MS) was used for characterization of natural dyes present in historical art works. The gradient program was developed for identification of 29 colorants of various polarities. Dual detection system (UV-Vis and ESI MS) allowed differentiation of all compounds, even if they were not completely separated. This enabled examination of more color compounds over a substantially shorter time in comparison with previously recommended methods. Moreover, for extraction of colorants from historical textiles a two-step sequential procedure was proposed, excluding evaporation used in earlier procedures. The developed method was successfully applied to identification of indigotin, carminic, kermesic, flavokermesic, dcII, dcIV, dcVII, and ellagic acids as well as luteolin, apigenin, and genistein in red, violet, and green fibers taken from three selected historical chasubles which belong to the collection of the Wawel Cathedral treasury (Cracow, Poland). Italian textiles from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, of which chasubles were made, were dyed with a limited number of dyestuffs, consistently used for all batches of fabrics. The obtained results also allowed confirmation of the structure of the so-called "dcII" component of cochineal as a C-glucose derivative of flavokermesic acid.